Zucchini is a plant that is very easy to grow usually. I am going to be going over the best way to grow zucchini. When you get the hang of growing it you will be able to supply yourself and most of your neighborhood. 🙂
One year I was working in the service department of an auto shop. I started taking bags of zucchini to work with me and giving it to people that had their oil changed or tires worked on. Whether they wanted it or not I usually talked them into taking some.
If disease or squash vine borers don’t get it killed it will produce till frost. I always get carried away and plant twenty or thirty plants the first planting. After they start producing I usually plant some more. I sell a lot at my produce stand through the summer.
The Best Way To Grow Zucchini Is In The Ground Not Pots.
If the temps are not warm enough yet you can start the seed in small pots. Zucchini doesn’t like it’s roots messed with at all and will shrivel up and die if you disturb the roots.
When it is ready to set out leave it in the pot while you get your planting hole ready. Slip the plant out and set it in the hole without disturbing the roots. Fill in around the roots without packing the soil.
Water in until all air is removed from around the root ball. If you need to you can add some soil as you water it in if the ground settles. Just don’t pack it with your hands.
Types Of Zuchini Seed That I Like
Easypick Green Hybrid Zucchini
This type is my favorite. It is an open type plant and is almost spineless. You can simply twist the fruit to pick. Very little scarring of the vegetable, as the stem breaks before the tip of the vegetable does.
This ease of picking means a longer shelf life. Easypick produces smooth-textured zucchini with a strong, bold green color. This zucchini is perfect for fresh eating and stir-fries. It is a hybrid that has a maturity range of 32 days
Spineless Perfection Hybrid Zucchini
Spineless perfection is a hybrid with a maturity of 44 days. It has attractive high gloss, 7 to 8″ fruits. Fruits of spineless perfection can be easily picked from open, upright plants. Truly spineless stems will not damage fruit during harvest.
This zucchini has the added benefit of resistances to Powdery Mildew, Zucchini Yellow Virus and Watermelon Mosaic Virus. This helps to keep the plants healthy all season long. I have had very good luck with this type in the past as long as you keep it picked as needed.
Payroll Hybrid Zucchini
Payroll Hybrid is a 47 day zucchini that is stress tolerant. This means that it can take heat and some dryness. Payroll produces fruit in abundance through out the summer as long as you keep it picked as needed.
In milder regions you can plant a second crop in mid-summer to enjoy a fall harvest. Few spines combined with an open, upright habit makes it easy to harvest.
The added benefit of Zucchini Yellow Virus, Watermelon Mosaic Virus and Powdery Mildew resistance makes it easy-to-grow.
Gold Rush Hybrid Zucchini
Gold Rush is a 52 day hybrid yellow zucchini. It has large, seven to eight inch fruits. The inside flesh is creamy white. The zucchini has almost no bulbing on the blossom end and is straight.
Gold Rush also has a vigorous open plant habit for easy harvest of the fruit. This zucchini is perfect for home gardens and market stand growers.
After Your Zucchini Plants Are Established
Mulch around the plants to help retain moisture and keep the ground temperature regulated. Zucchini plants need at least 2 inches of water per week. You can water by hand or use a soaker hose to make sure they get enough water.
Using a sprinkler for garden plants is not recommended because it promotes diseases like powdery mildew. Harvest the zucchini when they are small, usually around 6 to 8 inches long.
Zucchini Plants Wilting And Dying
Squash vine borers are my worst enemy with zucchini. You will notice leaves turning yellow and then the whole plant just wilts and dies. Vine borers enter the stem at ground level and kill the plant.
I don’t like using it because it kills any earthworms that contact it but I have had some success with sevin dust. Keep the seven dust on the ground and the bottom of the stem. This year I will be looking for another type of control. If I find something that works I will update it here.
The squash bug is common throughout the United States. It mainly attacks squash and pumpkins but can also attack other plants in the cucurbit family, such as cucumbers.
Squash bugs suck the sap out of leaves and cause yellow spots that later turn brown. It is most important to control squash bugs when the plants are young seedlings and when they are flowering. They can cause young plants to wilt and die. Squash bugs are not a problem if you see them feeding on plants in the fall.
bugs are flattened, large insects. They measure 5/8 inch long and 1/3 inch wide. They are usually dark gray to dark brown. Their abdomens have alternating orangish and brown stripes.
The eggs are oval shaped, 1/16 in. long, and yellowish to bronze.
The nymphs hatching from the eggs range in size from 1/10 to ½ inch in length as they progress through five stages called instars.
At first, the young nymphs have a light green abdomen and black heads and legs. As the nymphs grow larger, they first turn light gray and then brownish gray, with black legs and antennae.
Are you interested in growing pole beans? Read my article HERE.
Life cycle of squash bugs
Squash bugs can live through the winter as adults in sheltered places, such as under plant debris, around buildings, or under rocks. When adults come out in the spring, they fly to growing cucurbit plants to feed and mate.
Female squash bugs lay small clusters of eggs (about 20) on the undersides of the leaves, especially between the veins where they form a V. The females usually start appearing in gardens in early June and continue to lay eggs through mid-summer.
Eggs hatch in about 10 days, and nymphs mature in about four to six weeks. Both adults and nymphs run for cover when disturbed. One generation develops each year, although it is possible that in some summers there is a partial second generation.
In the fall, especially after the vines have died, the adults and nymphs group together on squash fruits. The nymphs die when the temperatures drop to freezing. The adults fly or crawl to sheltered places for the winter.
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Conclusion Of The Best Way To Grow Zucchini
That is about it for now. I am sure there is a lot about the best way to grow zucchini that I have left out. I will be editing the posts on this site as I come up with new information. In the meantime if you have any questions or comments, please leave them below and I will get back with you as soon as possible. If you made it this far down my article, know that I appreciate it. Good luck with growing your zucchini this summer.